Hat, yanayin zamani na sabon zamani

A cikin wani sutudiyo da ke tsakiyar birnin Paris, masu zanen hula sun yi aiki a teburinsu a kan kekunan ɗinki waɗanda suka daɗe da shekara 50. Hulayen, an kawata su da bakin zare, da kuma zomo fedoras, hulunan kararrawa da sauran huluna masu taushi, an yi su ne a cikin karamin taron bitar na Mademoiselle Chapeaux, wata alama ce da aka haifa shekaru shida da suka gabata wacce ke jagorancin hular Renaissance.

Wani mai sauya fasalin shine Maison Michel, ɗayan manyan kuma masu saurin girma a cikin manyan huluna, waɗanda suka buɗe shago a Printemps a Paris a watan da ya gabata. Abubuwan da ke biye da alamun sun hada da Pharrell Williams, Alexa Chung da Jessica Alba.

"Hular ta zama sabon magana," in ji Priscilla Royer, darektan zane-zane na tambarin kansa. Ta wata hanyar, kamar sabon salo ne. ”

A cikin Paris a cikin 1920s, akwai shagon kwalliya a kusan kowane kusurwa, kuma babu wani namiji ko mace mai girmama kansa da ya bar gida ba tare da hat ba. Hat alama ce ta matsayi, ba wai kawai a lokacin ba ko kuma hanyar zuwa duniyar zamani ba: shahararren mai hakar gwal daga baya ya zama babban mai zane-zane, ciki har da Gabrielle chanel (sunanta Coco ya fi shahara), kanu Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin) da (2) karni daya da suka gabata Ross bell temple (Rose Bertin) - ita ce Maryamu. Sarauniyar Antoinette (Sarauniya Marie Antoinette) dinkakkun. Amma bayan yunƙurin ɗaliban 1968 a Faris, samarin Faransa sun yi watsi da dabi'un iyayensu na nuna fifiko ga sabon 'yanci, kuma huluna ba su da kyau.

Zuwa 1980s, dabarun kirkirar hat na gargajiya na karni na 19, kamar su dinki hular bambaro da hular gashin woolen, duk sun bace. Amma yanzu, don saduwa da buƙatar da ake buƙata na hannu, hulunan kwalliya, waɗannan fasahohin sun dawo kuma ana rayar dasu ta sabon ƙarni masu ƙyama.

Kasuwar hular tana da darajar kimanin $ 15bn a shekara, a cewar Euromonitor, wani kamfanin bincike na kasuwa - wani bangare na kasuwar jakunkuna na duniya, wanda aka kiyasta ya kai $ 52bn.

Amma masu yin kwalliya irin su Janessa Leone, Gigi Burris da Gladys Tamez duk suna girma cikin sauri, tare da umarni suna kwarara daga ko'ina cikin duniya, koda kuwa basa cikin Paris amma a manyan biranen zamani masu salo kamar New York ko Los Angeles.

Dillalai a biranen Paris, London da kuma Shanghai suma sun ce sun lura da karuwar cinikin hat. Dukansu Le Bon Marche da na buga takardu, manyan shagunan manyan biranen Paris mallakar LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, sun lura da karuwar bukatar kwalliya ga maza da mata a cikin kashi uku da suka gabata.

Rival lane crawford, wacce ke da manyan shaguna a Hongkong da kuma kasar China, ta ce yanzu ta kara sayen hular ta da kashi 50 cikin dari kuma hular ta zama daya daga cikin kayan adon da ta fi sayarwa.

Andrew Keith, shugaban kamfanin, ya ce: “Salon shahara ya kasance abin da ya shafi masana - fedoras, panamas da bakin ga maza da mata. "Mun samu abokan cinikin sun ce suna son sanya huluna lokacin da suka saba, saboda dabi'a ce da ba ta dace ba, amma har yanzu tana da kyau da kuma salo."

Dillalin kan yanar gizo net-a-dorter ya ce fedoras har yanzu salon kwalliyar kwastomominsu ne, duk da faduwar da aka samu kwanan nan a cinikin kwalliya da hulunan beanie.

Lisa Aiken, darektan siyar da kayan kwalliya na dako, wanda yanzu wani bangare ne na kungiyar Yoox net-a-dorter mai kungiyar milan, ta ce: "kwastomomi suna kara samun kwarin gwiwa kuma suna da kwarin gwiwar kafa nasu salon." Yankin da ya fi samun ci gaba a harkar sayar da hular shi ne Asiya, inda sayar da hular a China ya tashi da kashi 14 cikin 100 a shekarar 2016 daga makamancin lokacin bara, in ji ta.

Stephen Jones, mai zanen kwalliyar london wanda ya kafa nasa tambarin kuma ya tsara wasu shagunan kayan kwalliyar mata da dama wadanda suka hada da dior da Azzedine Alaia, ya ce bai taba yin haka ba a da.

Ya kara da cewa: “Hatsunan yanzu ba batun martaba ba ne; Yana sa mutane su zama masu sanyaya kuma mafi kyawu. Hular hat za ta kara wa duniya haske da kunya. ”


Post lokaci: Mayu-27-2020